Hitchhiker's Guide to Armenia:
Diary of a Russian Traveler
May 15, 2009, video, 45 minutes, by Artem
Общая информация
Вкратце о себе: родился в городе Урай (Ханты-Мансийский
автономный округ), вырос в Уфе (Республика Башкортостан),
сейчас живу в Москве. Закончил журфак МГУ, владею английским
и немного испанским. Работаю редактором и журналистом,
путешествую по мере возможностей и пишу об этом в своем ЖЖ.
Готов обсудить любые деловые предложения, связанные с
путешествиями и туризмом: писать статьи и путеводители,
работать гидом и фотографом. Связаться со мной можно по
мэйлу rusakovich@gmail.com.
General information
Briefly about myself: I was born in the city of Urai (Khanty-Mansi
Autonomous
Area), grew up in Ufa
(Bashkortostan), and now live in Moscow. I graduated with a
degree in journalism from Moscow State University, and speak
English and some Spanish. I work as an editor and
journalist, traveling as much as possible and write about it
on LiveJournal [Zhivoi Zhurnal]. I am
ready to discuss any business offers related to travel and
tourism: to write articles and guides, to work as a guide
and photographer. You can contact me by e-mail rusakovich@gmail.com.
Краткое описание фильма:
От грузинской границы до Еревана с турецким дальнобойщиком -
Ереван: Европа в Закавказье — Митинг каждый день — Разговор
с афроармянином — Лестница в небо и вид на Арарат — Откуда в
Ереване Голубая мечеть — Армянские храмы снаружи и изнутри —
Старый и новый город — Село Гарни: языческий храм и
"симфония камня" — Монастырь Гегард— Город и озеро Севан —
Водитель-молоканин —
Дилижан — Село Фиолетово: патриархальная Русь посреди
Армении — Ванадзор — Водитель из Гюмри о спитакском
землетрясении — Монастырь Кобайр — Как полетать над Алаверди
— Сыновья армянского плотника: создатель МИГа и президент
СССР — Монастыри Санаин и Ахпат: тени прошлого.
A brief description of the films:
[Recorded April 30 to 3 May 3, 2009. 8 to10 minutes each.
Posted on the Internet May
15, 2009.] Part 1 —
9:47 minutes — From the Georgia border to Yerevan with a
Turkish trucker — Erevan: Europe in the Transcaucasus — A
meeting every day — Conversation with an Afro-Armenian —
Stairway to Heaven, and a look at Ararat — Where did the
Blue Mosque in Yerevan come from
Part 2— 9:59 minutes —
Armenian churches inside and out — old and new City — Garni
village: pagan temple and a "symphony of stone" — Gegard
Monastery
Part 3—
7:59 minutes — City and Lake Sevan — a Molokan driver — Dilijan [2:30-minute
interview with Spiritual Christian man in noisy car.]
Part 4—
9:54 minutes — Fioletovo
village: patriarchal Russia in the middle of Armenia [Short
interview with 2 Spiritual
Christians along highway, then 9-minute interview with
a Spiritual Christianman on street]
Part 5—
8:10 minutes — Vanadzor [Kirovakan] — A driver from Gyumri
about the Spitak earthquake — Monastery Kobayr — How to fly
over Alaverdi — Sons of an Armenian carpenter: MIG founder
and president of the USSR — Monasteries Sanahin and Haghpat:
the shadows of the past.
Hitchhiker's Guide to
Armenia — Part 3 — To watch, move the sliding
red dot at the bottom of the screen to the middle,
and set the timer to minute 4:00. A Dukh-i-zhiznik
or Molokan gives
hitchhiker
Artem a ride to Delizhan from Lake Sevan. The
interview ends at minute 6:39.
Driver: Our ancestors came from Tambov. Hitchhiker:
When did they come here? D:
During the reign of Cathrine I, they were exiled.... H: What
for? D: You know,
to live with God ... the cross ... [unclear] H:Ah, Old
Ritualists? [Old Believers] D:Yeah, but Molokane. H:Molokane, yeah
I heard about them. D:My sister
lives in Min Vod. They came to visit the farm. H:Where do you
work? D:On a farm. We
raise livestock. Feed them. I got one here in the
back. We sell the young ones [calves, lambs]. H:Do you have a
family, kids? D: Yes,
five kids. H:Do Russians
usually have big families? D:Yes, we have
families of 10, 12, 8, 7, .. H:Are there also
Russians ... D:They are in
Fioletovo, and farther in Lermontovo. I don't know.
Earlier we had 20 villages. They went to Moscow,
Krasnayarsk, Krasnodar, Stavropol, Rostov ... H:Where did the
name Filoletovo come from? Do you know? D:Before it was
called Nikitino. Then named after [Ivan T.] Fioletov,
one
of 26
Baku
commissars who were shot.
.
Hitchhiker's Guide to
Armenia — Part 4 — Hitchhiker Artem
interviews 2 young Dukh-i-zhiznik or Molokan men
plowing a field along the highway. Then he
interviews a a Dukh-i-zhiznik
or Molokan
man on the street in Fioletovo. The opening title
reads: "Fioletovo (15 km [10 miles] west of
Dilizhan)". [Translation
is close.]
Hitchhiker: Do any Russians live here? Young men:Catherine
II sent us here. H: Where did
they send you from YM: From Tambov
Governorate [guberniia]...
Tsar
Nicholas... It was the prosecution of the Church. [In Fioletovo] Man: We
live by Christ's commandments. H: So
you don't have any priests [sviashchenik : священик]?
M: What you
mean We have them. We sing psalms, H: What's
the difference between your church and a typical
church, the Orthodox Church? M: Ours
doesn't take bribes. We don't preach for money. Our
priest is a worker just like me. He earns his
living. I earn my living. So we don't pay money for baptizing,
weddings or funerals. That's the difference.
Over there in the
[Orthodox] Church you have to pay money to the
priest if he comes to baptize kids. If you get
married then you have to pay money, and then
membership to the State. Ah, we don't pay anybody!
So we don't harm
anybody. We just serve God and that's it. Over there
the pope can get drunk. And for example their leader
gets drunk. And his assistants get drunk with wine
and waggle in their chasubles
[robes]. But we don't do that. We are against
tobacco, alcohol, stealing, and cheating. That's our
way of life. We work a lot of course in the mountains H: Yeah I
can see that the soil is poor. Does anything grow
here? M: Potatoes,
cabbage,
carrots and beets, that's all. Our ancestors
were exiled from Russia during the times 1758, -38
... -54 ... H: 1800s [about 1830] M: 1800s H: Who was
the Tsar then? M: Nicholas
probably. H: I was
told it was during Cathrine II. M: No not
Nicholas, Catherine Maybe a different Nicholas
but mostly during Catherine. But Nicholas was
the last one during the Revolution in 1917. H: I see
the houses are big and nice. The villages in Central
Russia look worse than this one. Why is that? M: I know
that, I've been there. Because these mountains were
full of forests. When our people came here there
were only 38 families. They cut down the trees, just
like in Russia, and built these houses.
There's a rock here, tufa[hard soil].
We work a lot.
We practically don't use
alcohol at all. H: Not at
all? M: We
drink a little sometimes. The young drink a little.
But generally not. The family people mostly work for
their family. [Noisy tractor
passes.]
H: I see there is .... M: [Interrupts]
We
don't use tobacco. H: I see
that the kids can drive tractors. M: Yeah,
kids. Look at my grandson, he can drive a car
tractor. And I have a Ford tractor. And he's almost
7 years old, he can almost drive the car, standing
behind the Ford [tractor].
I got up in the
morning at 6 am, and I will work until 9 pm. What
you harvest, that's what your going to get. If
you sit over here.... We have rich. We have poor.
But generally it's good. A lot of people left to
Russia. H: You are
not going? M: My son is
going. I have 3 brothers in Russia. They grew up
over here.This is our father's house. I have an
apartment in Kirovakan
[now Vanadzor]
where I lived. I was born here. Now I get a pension.
My son is in Yakutia
[Siberia]. H: Is he mining
diamonds? M: No he's
working on a gas line. When he finishes he will go
to Uzbekistan.
He went to Indai, and Nakhodka.
They are constantly traveling in Russia and working
there. [Spiritual
Christian labor teams from Armenia subcontract as
"brigades".]
Hi [Zdarov].
Mikey!
[Picks up grandson.] And that's how we live — little
by little. Let me kiss you. Here's my grandson. It's
difficult right now. During the Soviet Union we
lived better than in Russia. They don't ask you for
registration papers. In Russian there are too many
laws. Here there are fewer laws.
Today if I do something here, my
neighbor won't turn me in for what I am doing. Where
did I get it? What am I doing? I don't know how it
is in Russia now. But during Soviet times, they
reported you to the authorities. He has it, I don't
have it.
But Armenians are different. If he has
it, he will share it with a neighbor. All my life my
neighbors did not bother me, they helped me. So it's
easier here if you have work. H: Is
there any conflict between Russians and Armenians? M: No.
Absolutely not. H: During
the Soviet Union there were conflicts, but after
each Republic separated, I have full
responsibilities and rights. M: Do
you know [speak] Armenian? H: Yes. In
the village they don't know. But I lived in the
city. All my family, my grand-kids are learning it.
You need it. The men go into the army and have to
learn it, but the females [don't] ....